Domaine Fichet

A noble terroir has at last reclaimed its birthright. Once esteemed above all other villages for its white wines, Meursault fell from grace in the late 19th century—despite having a greater diversity of superb Chardonnay soils than any other place in Burgundy, and possibly any other spot on earth. Today, Meursault is back on top, and a new generation of winemakers is capitalizing on its diverse soils to make Burgundy’s most expressive—and some would say best—white wines. Wines of unprecedented individuality are emerging from such cellars as Guy Roulot, Arnaud Ente and Comtes Lafon, but if there is one winemaker who points the way to the future, it may be Jean-Philippe Fichet.

More than any of his peers, Fichet is testing the limits of transparency, to find the very soul of Meursault’s terroirs. It was Meursault’s destiny to have its soils revealed in this way: their intense stoniness is magnified by an exceptionally low water table that forces the vines’ roots deep underground. Fichet’s work is a direct outgrowth of a breakthrough that happened three decades ago: René Lafon’s decision to bottle his Meursault "Clos de la Barre" on its own. For a century before, such a thing had been unheard of, as only the most famous vineyards, the premier crus, were ever bottled individually; everything else was blended into Meursault villages. severe winter pruning rather than green harvesting. And he believes his wines’ expressiveness is enhanced through a patient 18-month élevage, with little new oak and by avoiding aggressive lees stirring.

Jean-Philippe Fichet's "below the radar" status is likely to soon change, as his incredible 2005s (and 2006s) should bring him much broader attention. Fichet’s style most closely resembles Roulot’s, with riveting focus, purity and delineation, and incredible transparency. Although Fichet owns almost no vines, he has utilized long-term férmage and metayage agreements to assemble an enviable vineyard line-up - most in relatively old vines in the Meursault’s top lieux-dits (and a little Puligny 1er Cru). He fastidiously oversees all aspects of the viticulture and harvesting. This meticulous attention to detail carries over to his cellar practices as well, where adapts his work to not just each wine, but often to each individual barrel!

Wines include:
Bourgogne Blanc Vieilles Vignes—Forty-year-old vines in a parcel across the road from Meursault- Charmes, this wine has more Meursault character than the vast majority of Meursault villages wines.

Meursault—Based on three beautifully situated parcels on the southern slopes of the village: les Cloux (60-year-old vines); les Chaumes de Narvaux, just above Boucheres and Gouttes d’Or; Limouzin, directly below Genevrières, plus a little Criots.

Meix sous le Château—The vines in this lieu-dit were planted in 1953. This tiny, steep, west-facing site in the middle of the village is classically Meursault in character, with citrus and mineral notes, beautifully pure fruit in the mid-palate and fine length.

Tesson—Very similar to Chevalières in its minerality and fruit character, in some vintages Tesson has even more mid-palate weight and length. Focused like a laser beam, this is often the most complete of the lieux-dits.

Gruyaches—Gruyaches is a small plot of 77-year-old vines enclosed on two sides by Meursault-Charmes. This is the richest and fullest of the Fichet lieux-dits, yet it shares their focus, minerality and length.