Joh. Jos. Christoffel

 With Schaefer and Selbach-Oster, the “big three” among the Mosels, Christoffel has been constantly stellar, not just “often” or “regularly,” but EVERY SINGLE TIME, EVERY SINGLE WINE stellar since the 1992 vintage. Everything one can wish from great wine is lavished on these: depth, clarity, complexity, buoyancy, purity and ineffable beauty. The more I get, the more you want; sorry, but I still must allocate. The estate is tiny, and has been discovered! Dashingly aromatic, brilliant luster of flavor, inchoate depth which begs for study. The kinds of wines you keep adding to your notes on; each sip reveals another facet, the second glass differs from the first, the very last sip is still saying fresh new things. There’s a jewel-like firmness here; these aren’t leesy or plush. In general, the Erdeners are thicker and more thrusting; they show better younger. The Ürzigers are refined, fastidious and sleek.

•Vineyard area: 2.2 hectares
•Annual production: 1,700 cases
•Top sites: Erdener Treppchen, Ürziger Würzgarten
•Soil types: Weathered Devonian slate with Rotliegend
•Grape varieties: 100% Riesling